Not too many weeks back, I wrote a blog on taking photos of birds and wildlife.
There is one bird that visits my back patio regularly--the hummingbird--that I like to experiment with in terms of photographs.
Again, I would point out, that photos don't have to be perfect, but should have some type of artistry about them. So here's some pointers on capturing this very fast, wings-never-stop-in-the-air, feeder visitor.
Cameras and Settings
I personally do not own a cell phone that can get close enough to, or capture the movement of a hummingbird (freeze it), in my repertoire of gear. If you do, I'd be very interested in seeing the resulting photos.
There is one bird that visits my back patio regularly--the hummingbird--that I like to experiment with in terms of photographs.
Again, I would point out, that photos don't have to be perfect, but should have some type of artistry about them. So here's some pointers on capturing this very fast, wings-never-stop-in-the-air, feeder visitor.
Cameras and Settings
I personally do not own a cell phone that can get close enough to, or capture the movement of a hummingbird (freeze it), in my repertoire of gear. If you do, I'd be very interested in seeing the resulting photos.
Nikon D800, 70-200mm lens at 200 mm, f2.8, ISO 800, 1/1000, spot metering.
In all photo examples in this blog, I have listed the camera used and settings as a photo caption for those interested.
Once before I noted that if you are taking pictures in nature and want to enter them in a photo competition that has a nature category, they will probably not do well (depends on the competition--be sure to read the rules carefully) if there is a manmade object in the photo, such as the feeder above. But, since I only take these photos for my enjoyment, and do not enter them in competition, a feeder is perfectly acceptable.
Above the feeder and the hummer are stationary. With my 70-200mm lens, I am able to capture a relatively clear photo of this little one. Due to the location of the feeder, I have to make sure I set the ISO higher, so that the photo is not underexposed. That means in post processing, I have to get rid of some of the noise associated with higher ISO levels.
I am a Photoshop Elements user for post processing work.
Once before I noted that if you are taking pictures in nature and want to enter them in a photo competition that has a nature category, they will probably not do well (depends on the competition--be sure to read the rules carefully) if there is a manmade object in the photo, such as the feeder above. But, since I only take these photos for my enjoyment, and do not enter them in competition, a feeder is perfectly acceptable.
Above the feeder and the hummer are stationary. With my 70-200mm lens, I am able to capture a relatively clear photo of this little one. Due to the location of the feeder, I have to make sure I set the ISO higher, so that the photo is not underexposed. That means in post processing, I have to get rid of some of the noise associated with higher ISO levels.
I am a Photoshop Elements user for post processing work.
Nikon D800, 70-200mm at 200mm, f2.8, ISO 1600, 1/1000, spot metering.
Our back patio is surrounded by huge hemlock trees. In the latter part of the day, when hummingbirds tend to come to the feeders, shadows and dark areas make it difficult to shoot at higher speeds. That's when the ISO has to increase. In this case (the photo above) to 1600, in order to freeze the movement of a wing.
If you read the caption, you can see the only thing that changed here was the ISO. All other settings remained the same. It makes for a grainier, but more artistic, look.
If you read the caption, you can see the only thing that changed here was the ISO. All other settings remained the same. It makes for a grainier, but more artistic, look.
Nikon D800, 70-200mm at 200mm, f2.8, ISO 2500, 1/1000, spot metering.
In the above photo, the little hummingbird is getting ready to take off. I think it looks like an air traffic controller. If only there were flags to wave. Because I am now shooting through a window to be behind the bird, and I am shooting into a darker area of background, again the ISO was raised to 2500.
And finally, below, what happens if you take the speed down to 1/640 instead of the 1/1000. These birds always move, so reducing the speed reduces the ability to capture a clear/frozen image. But, it's artsy enough to be considered a valiant effort.
And finally, below, what happens if you take the speed down to 1/640 instead of the 1/1000. These birds always move, so reducing the speed reduces the ability to capture a clear/frozen image. But, it's artsy enough to be considered a valiant effort.
Nikon D800, 70-200mm at 200mm, f2.8, ISO 1600, 1/640, spot metering.
Composition and Post Processing
In all cases, unnecessary elements were cropped out of the photo. Because the lens was left wide open at f2.8, the background is blurred. In the last photo, above, there are elements of bokeh.
Noise has been reduced, and in some cases, a bit more blur added to the background in post processing, to keep the focus on the subject.
In all cases, I am looking to crop the photo and subject so it remains pleasing to the eye, maintains subject focus, and does not distract.
Someday, I may move these feeders to a brighter location. But it's good to experiment in not so great areas of light, to get a better handle on what your camera can do, as well as be prepared for these types of environments with other subjects.
I love watching our hummers zip and zap through our feeder areas. Their twittering/chattering sound is very recognizable, to the point that you even know when they are not happy with each other.
For another perspective on hummingbird photography, check out this great piece by the Audubon Society.
In all cases, unnecessary elements were cropped out of the photo. Because the lens was left wide open at f2.8, the background is blurred. In the last photo, above, there are elements of bokeh.
Noise has been reduced, and in some cases, a bit more blur added to the background in post processing, to keep the focus on the subject.
In all cases, I am looking to crop the photo and subject so it remains pleasing to the eye, maintains subject focus, and does not distract.
Someday, I may move these feeders to a brighter location. But it's good to experiment in not so great areas of light, to get a better handle on what your camera can do, as well as be prepared for these types of environments with other subjects.
I love watching our hummers zip and zap through our feeder areas. Their twittering/chattering sound is very recognizable, to the point that you even know when they are not happy with each other.
For another perspective on hummingbird photography, check out this great piece by the Audubon Society.
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